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Now is probably the biggest surge in the popularity of 3D (stereo) in history. A rapidly increasing number of theatrical movies are filmed in 3D or converted to 3D in post-production (note: poorly converted films may cause headaches in some people, especially if they are not used to watching moving 3D images). 3D TVs are becoming more affordable with better quality for home entertainment, and can readily play the image files produced by consumer digital 3D cameras and camcorders. There are true 3D cameras and camcorders, and attachment accessories for SLRs. With so many equipment choices, everyone can easily jump on the 3D bandwagon!
3D (or stereo) vision is a natural way for us to see things in the real world and gives us depth perception. Most people with two functioning eyes see in stereo. When we photograph in 2D, we often include depth cues, which are elements that when compared to each other give us a sense of scale and depth. We usually do not overlap these objects, but rather offset them somewhat so we can see everything. In 3D photography, the more things overlap the greater the 3D effect. When viewed, these objects have their own place in space and give us natural depth that we are used to seeing in real life. You cannot see depth at long distances so foreground objects are usually included in scenics and landscapes to give a sense of depth to the image.
Both film and digital cameras are illustrated in this article, and the techniques for 3D photography apply to both. 3D photography can be extremely creative. Techniques such as having things come out of the image toward you can be fun and effective (how many of you duck in 3D movies when something is coming directly toward you and appears to jump off the screen?). In all cases discussed here, two separate images of the same scene are taken, from slightly different positions, which represent what your eyes see (a left eye image and a right eye image). Special viewers or glasses merge these two images together to create the 3D effect. Some people can free view (no special equipment) stereo images as well--parallel view, where the left image is on the left and the right image is on the right; and cross view, where the images are reversed.
The following paragraphs cover basic equipment and techniques needed to get started. Much more detailed information can be found on the Internet. See the list of resources in the sidebar for more information and for places to order 3D cameras and supplies.
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Using Your Existing Equipment
Using your existing camera(s) is the easiest and most affordable way to get into 3D photography. If you use an SLR or medium format camera, you can take advantage of all of the high quality lenses and accessories you already own; but any camera can be used--even a compact digital or disposable camera.
There are several techniques used to capture 3D images with a single camera. One is to cha cha between shots, where you lean to one side putting your weight over that foot, take the image, then shift your weight to the other foot and take the second image. Take care to keep the horizon straight and compose the image the same way (do not raise or lower the camera angle). Another technique is to use a slide bar to attach the camera to a tripod and then move it from side to side on the bar (some slide along the bar and some have a hinge to jump the camera side to side).
Macro photography can be especially fun in 3D. Amazing detail pops out allowing you to see minute objects in a way you have never seen before. As with standard macro photography, a tripod is a must. A slide bar or macro focusing rail also is essential for critical control of camera movement. As with scenic photography, the camera is moved side to side between shots.
The basic rule of thumb is to move the camera side-to-side 1/30th of the distance of the lens to nearest object distance (e.g., if you are 30 feet away, move the camera 1 foot; if you are 30 inches away, move it 1 inch). You also can move the camera approximately the same distance as between the center of your eyes (about 3 to 4 inches). There are free calculation software programs available online to help calculate the correct distance to move the camera. Be sure to keep parallel with the subject, and focus on the same spot in both images or the depth of field will be different (use manual focusing when possible). The drawback to using only one camera is you should not have moving subjects as they will be in different positions in each image and cause headaches and eye strain from the brain trying to merge the images together.
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SLR Attachments (Beam Splitters)
Beam splitters are relatively inexpensive attachments for SLRs to do 3D photography. They use a system of mirrors and/or prisms that "split" the image into a left and right version. Pentax [R] made a beam splitter accessory, which came with a special viewer. Currently, Loreo [R] makes a product called Lens-in-a-Cap, which works on the same principle and is much more accurate. There are three versions: wide/landscape, normal/ portrait, and macro. These go on the camera body in place of a regular lens and take two vertical half frame images at the same time, so having moving subjects is okay as the two images are exposed at the same time freezing the movement in both images. This is an easy way to switch between 2D and 3D photography using only one camera, and they don't take up much space in your camera bag.
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True 3D Digital Cameras and Camcorders
The newest gadgets are true 3D cameras and camcorders. These products also can be set in 2D mode, therefore eliminating the need for two separate cameras or camcorders.
The most popular and best quality compact digital 3D camera is the Fujifilm [R] FinePix REAL 3D W3 (see the hardware review in this issue on page 10). This camera is small, light, and has point-&-shoot ease with advanced manual controls available on dials and in menus. An extensive amount of shooting options is available. It is comparably priced to a medium to high-end 2D compact digital cameras. The W3 takes high definition (HD) 2D and 3D movies (with audio) as well as still images, and is compatible with 3D TVs. 3D images are easily processed for a variety of output formats with free software (StereoPhoto Maker [R]) available online (pay-for software is available as well). Images and movies are viewable in 3D on the camera's LCD screen, making it a lot of fun to instantly share the 3D experience (the wow! or awesome! factor).
Cyclopital3D [R] carries three accessory attachments to expand the capabilities of the W3: Macro Adaptor (add a close-up lens for close focusing), Auxiliary Lens Adaptor (add wide angle lenses and lens hoods), and Stereo Base Extender.
Other cameras and camcorders available include: Easy 3D Stereo Digital Camera [R]; Sony [R] DSC-TX9 and DSC-WX5 3D cameras; Panasonic [R] HDC-SDT750K HD 3D Camcorder; Panasonic AG-3DA1 Professional Integrated Twin-lens 3D Camera Recorder; Sony Handycam HDR-TD10 Full HD 3D Camcorder; Sony Bloggie 3D DualLens 3D Camcorder For Your Pocket; Aiptek [R] 3D-HD High Definition 3D Camcorder, and JVC [R] GS-TD1 3D camcorder.
Twin Rig Cameras
You also can use two cameras (compact or SLR; film or digital) mounted together on a bar. A straight bar puts them side by side with a large lens separation. A "Z" bar turns one camera upside down so the lenses are closer together to allow photographing nearer to your subject (good for close-ups). Some models can be wired together so they fire at the same time (one being the master and the other the slave), which allows accurate motion capture. Some Canon [R] compact digital cameras can be easily linked together and run with free StereoData Maker [R] software that allows extra features for 3D photography to be accessed.
1950s Vintage Stereo Cameras
There were many 3D cameras made worldwide around the 1950s--the previous big heyday for 3D. Common makes here in the United States include Realist [R], Kodak [R], and Revere [R]. You can still find these cameras on eBay (search for stereo camera); at camera stores (ones that carry used equipment); and at yard sales, auctions, and flea markets. There are a few people who work on these cameras who can clean them up. They are still excellent cameras if you want to shoot film or slides. Because they are true stereo cameras, they capture motion well.
Other True 3D Film Cameras
Currently available new (including old stock) and vintage true 3D cameras include Loreo Stereo Camera Model #321 (35mm film), Holga [R] Stereo Pin-Hole Camera (120 Film), Holga Stereo Camera (120 Film), Kalimar [R] 3D Stereo Camera, Nishika [R] N8000 Lenticular Camera, The 3D MAC [R] (macro point & shoot); Custom Nimslo [R] 3D Lenticular Camera, RBT [R], and 3DWorld [R] TL120-1 Medium Format Stereo Camera.
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Now It's YOUR Turn!
What are you waiting for? With so many options, there is something that will fit your budget and shooting style. Join the PSA 3D Division--compete in the exhibitions and share your images. This is an exciting time to join the fun as technology moves ahead full speed with new innovations coming out constantly.
3D Resources:
http://shop.ebay.com/petertsengemail/m.html?_trksid=p4340.l2562 (viewers, glasses, stereo views)
www.americanpaperoptics.com (3D glasses)
www.3dstereo.com (cameras, viewers, and supplies)
www.berezin.com (cameras, viewers, and supplies)
www.berezin.com/3d/stereo_base_calculator.htm (free stereo base calculator)
www.cyclopital3d.com (Fuji W3 camera and accessories, specialty print and digital viewers)
www.drt3d.com (cameras, viewers, supplies, repairs, and manuals)
www.groups.yahoo.com (search for "3D," or "stereo," or a specific camera or technique--lots of specialized discussion groups)
www.snap3d.com (lenticular 3D printing)
www.stereo.jpn.org/eng (free 3D processing and viewing software)
www.stereo3d.com (information on 3D cameras, projection, and glasses)
www.stereoscopy.com (everything 3D!)
www.stereoscopy.com/clubs (clubs and organizations worldwide)
www.studio3d.com (cameras, viewers, and supplies)
www.studio3d.com/pages2/freeview.html (how to free view 3D images)
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